Even in well-versed wine circles, oak will often boil down to one question: new or old? But in the last few centuries, oak barrels have evolved.
These days winemakers and other industry pros dig into the nitty gritty details. Is it thick or thin grain? Lightly toasted or heavily charred? Is it larger or smaller than the typical 225-liter barrique? And, maybe most importantly, where does the wood come from—the United States, France or further afield, like Slovenia, Hungary or Austria?
McGrail Vineyards, in the Livermore Valley, bottles different Cabernet Sauvignon expressions: Hungarian (A Jo Elet), American (The Patriot) and French (James Vincent). Sip them side by side and the differences imparted by the barrels are remarkable. The American is powerful, earthy and slightly spicy, while the French boasts more supple tannins and floral fruit. The Hungarian lends notes of cedar and vanilla to offset the bright blueberry.
Winemaker Manfred Ing of Querciabella mainly works with one grape for his Chianti Classico: Sangiovese. And while terroir does most of the talking, Ing also leans on hand-selected oak from Burgundy and Austria to usher his wines to the finish line.
But how, precisely, does the provenance of the wood impact the final outcome? Below, winemakers break it all down.
